On the Hunt for BJ’s Best Afternoon Tea: China World

Posted: June 6th, 2012 | Author: LumDimSum | Filed under: Foodies & Dining Scene, Music | Tags: 12-piece Orchestra, Afternoon Tea, Bespoke Beijing, China World Hotel, CityWeekend, Kempinski Hotel, Kimberley Tso, Lobby Lounge, Park Hyatt, Rendez-vous Bar & Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Sarah Keenlyside, Sofitel Hotel, Tom Pattinson, Veronica Wong | 4 Comments »

Afternoon Tea at China World Hotel: 12-piece Orchestra Performance

I was beginning to lose hope.  I was beginning to get jaded. I was beginning to believe that a truly authentic English afternoon tea just does not exist in Beijing.  And just when I least expected it, I discovered China World Hotel’s Afternoon Tea Concert.

Over the past few months, I’ve been making my way through Beijing’s institutional hotels, sipping and tasting my way through their afternoon tea menus on a mission (in collaboration with CityWeekend) to uncover the very best afternoon tea in Beijing.  While some have definitely fared better than others, the overall afternoon tea spreads available at the Ritz-Carlton, Park Hyatt, Sofitel Beijing Hotel and Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa Center (in chronological order) have all been sub-par. None have been perfect, none have blown me away and that is exactly what I have been itching to find.

My ears perked up as soon as I heard the words “12 piece orchestra” and “afternoon tea” incorporated into the same sentence.  A live classical music concert every Sunday afternoon in the lobby of China World Hotel sounded like a trip worth making.

Although I had not previously heard of this Afternoon Tea Concert before, it’s been apparently been regular event since it first opened over 20 years ago as a part of the China World Trade Center (hotel, offices, apartments, exhibition halls and shopping center). Every Sunday, China World Hotel has invited students and young musicians to play a classical concert for its guests in the glamorous lobby of their hotel, a setting reminiscent of a Chinese imperial palace.   

LumDimSum Snapshots of China World Hotel’s Lobby Lounge:

12-piece Classical Orchestra Performance

China World Hotel’s Lobby Lounge Manager Kimberley Tso is from London and knows exactly how afternoon tea should be

Music to my ears and joy leaping from my taste buds, China World Hotel Lobby Lounge’s Afternoon Tea Concert is a weekend treat that both Beijing residents and out-of-town visitors should make a point to enjoy at least once. I say “at least once” because every month they change the theme of their Afternoon Tea Concert to serve something fresh, something new while maintaining the same high-quality standards and upholding this treasured, time-honored English tradition.

On the Sunday afternoon I came to visit, the theme of the month was “Strawberries and Cream”.  Diving into the summer heat, there is nothing more evocative of a British summer than strawberries and cream.

May 2012′s “Strawberries and Cream” Afternoon Tea Theme:

“As in China, tea is not just a mere drink in Great Britain and is more a way of life, so join our elegant tea party as we indulge in the tradition of afternoon tea with a range of delights from its very birthplace. British classics such as fresh strawberries and vanilla cream, apple crumble, fruit cake, scones, clotted cream and jam will grace the silverware at Lobby Lounge this May.”  - China World Hotel

The Afternoon Tea Concert set is priced at RMB 298 +15% service charge and includes two teas or coffees from the Afternoon Tea menu.  Tea selection is broken down into three categories with multiple options available in each selection: Classic Tea Selection (English Breakfast, Earl Grey, Darjeeling, Assam and Sencha), Chinese Tea Selection (Jasmine, Pu’er, Chrysanthemum) and Herbal Tea Selection (Peppermint and Chamomile). Coffee is available upon request and for those really looking to indulge, there is also a Champagne Afternoon Tea option available.

One of the few afternoon tea events in Beijing that requires a reservation to ensure a seat, I recommend that you call 6505 2266 extension 37 in advance.

“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.”— Henry James, The Portrait of a Lady

LumDimSum Snapshots of Afternoon Tea at China World Hotel: 

Four tasters strong, we ordered a variety (Darjeeling, Jasmine and Chrysanthemum) and we were each treated to our own tea pot set

Recommended by China World Hotel: Chrysanthemum Tea Set

Two Complete Afternoon Tea Sets Shared Between Four Tasters

LumDimSum Breakdown of China World Hotel’s Afternoon Tea Concert Set:

One Complete Set includes 3-Tiered Display and Sides of Savoury Sausage Roll & Basket of Scones

Bottom Tier Display of Tea Sandwiches:

(From L to R): Ham and Cheddar Sandwich, Cucumber Sandwich, Smoked Salmon Sandwich, Egg and Chive Sandwich

What you might suspect as being the most boring part of the afternoon tea set was actually the most surprising because, for the very first time, we were served sandwiches with bread that is not dry and crusty. Hallelujah! Moist, freshly-cut mini sandwich rectangles perfected. Something so simple can still go terribly wrong, but even as harsh critics, we could find no faults here.

The Egg and Chive Sandwich was very neat (it could have been doused with too much mayo and a sloppy mess at worst), the Ham & Cheddar Sandwich included a slice of real Cheddar cheese (not the processed kind) with a touch of mustard and pickle (to add sophistication to an otherwise basic Ham & Cheddar combination), the Cucumber Sandwich was served cold (there’s nothing worse than warm cucumber) with a layer soft and creamy cream cheese, and the Smoked Salmon Sandwich was rich and smoky served on a soft and fluffy whole grain bread base (not the dense pumpernickel bread it’s been served on elsewhere).

Middle Tier Display of Pastries:

The lovely chocolate butterfly delicately perched on top of the Chocolate Éclair was almost too nice to eat, the Strawberry Cheesecake Tart was thick with a strong cheesy flavor on top of a soft, crumbly shortbread biscuit base and the White Chocolate Lemon Tart tasted like a light lemon meringue pie decorated with white chocolate disks and lime jelly cubes, a combination best described as a “zesty interlude” (phrase coined by Sarah Keenlyside, a native Brit, fellow taster, talented journalist and founder of Bespoke Beijing travel and events company).

Strawberry Cheesecake / Chocolate Eclair / White Chocolate Lemon Tart

Strawberry Cheesecake & White Chocolate Lemon Tart Dissected

Chocolate Eclair Close-Up

Top Tier Display of Desserts:

Among the entire three tiered display of delights, the only item I didn’t personally like was the English Fruit Cake. I can’t say I like fruit cake in general, but this one was especially dense, nutty and sticky. Dried fruits were mixed throughout the cake and although it is quite a traditional English pastry, it’s a bit too stodgy for my liking. The Apple Crumble was lovely, but we all agreed that fresh apples (rather than candied apples) would have been preferred.

Saving the top tier for last, we also saved the Fresh Strawberry with Vanilla Cream for the final taste of our impressive 3-tiered display of delights.  A perfect ending, the mini fresh strawberries were sweet and juicy, floating on a cloud of light and fluffy vanilla cream.  The only thing that could have made this dessert any better would be to provide an extra side of strawberries as the proportion of cream outnumbered the handful of fresh strawberries.

English Fruit Cake / Apple Crumble / Fresh Strawberries with Vanilla Cream

So the big question lies in what to do with the remaining vanilla cream once the strawberries disappeared. You can’t possibly eat the cream with the elegant cocktail stick you used to eat the strawberries (we tried and failed).

Creative solution by fellow American taster Veronica Wong – dip a scone in the vanilla cream or you can also do what fellow British taster Tom Pattinson instinctually did – stick your finger in it and lick it with no hint of shame.

Extra Sweet & Savoury Sides:

Side of Savoury Sausage Rolls / Basket of Scones with Clotted Cream, Organic Honey and Berry Preserve

Savoury Sausage Roll Close-Up

The only thing that made us more excited than the Fresh Strawberries and Vanilla Cream dessert were the Savoury Sausage Rolls served on the side in its own basket. Topped with a layer of sesame seeds, this reminded us of Jamie Oliver’s style of adding contemporary twists on traditional recipes. The flaky  sausage roll was exactly how it ought to be (confirmed by two fellow Brits). Excellent value as it’s generously portioned and big enough to share, this was a big hit among an already impressive afternoon tea set spread.

“I’ve had a few sausage rolls in China, but never have I had one I’ve enjoyed as much as this.” - Tom Pattinson, Sausage Roll Connoisseur

Loaded Sultana Scone with Clotted Cream and Jam

 Now that is a good looking scone. A side basket filled with plain and Sultana scones come with a side of trio spreads: Clotted Cream, Organic Honey and Berry Preserve (aka jam). While we stacked our scones high with oozing Clotted Cream and Jam, I still think the best scone I’ve tasted was the first afternoon tea I tried at the Ritz-Carlton Beijing which was much bigger and fluffier with a flaky exterior shell and a soft, chewy inside.

Although last month’s “Strawberry and Cream” theme is now past, this month’s bejeweled theme should be just as impressive and although it is yet to be confirmed, China World Hotel’s Lobby Lounge Manager Kimberley Tso gives us hints that “Tropical Fruits” and “Mad Hatter’s Tea Party” are possible themes in the upcoming months ahead.

Next Month, June 2012 Features a Bijou Theme:

“Against a stunning Chinese imperial palace-inspired backdrop, with the sweet sound of live music filling the air, the Lobby Lounge’s Bijou Afternoon Tea features delectable sandwich delights, enticing precious trinkets themed pastries and miniature scones, savor highlights such as Chocolate Opera Cake and Berry Macaroon Tart.” – June 2012 Theme

Review of China World Hotel’s Afternoon High Tea: 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, 建国门外大街1号, Tel: +86 10 6505-2266 ext. 37. Afternoon Tea available daily, but Orchestra only plays on Sundays, 3pm-6pm

Best Part:

• The 12-piece Classical Orchestra really sets China World Hotel aparts from all other Afternoon Tea events in the city.
• Seamless, consistent live classical music throughout the entire 3 hours of afternoon tea. Even when the 12-piece orchestra goes on break, they feature a pianist and flutist playing through the interlude. 
• The most traditional English Afternoon Tea I’ve tasted so far with authentic British bites easy to share and eat in an elegant, dignified way (as it ought to be) and true finger sandwiches (no crust and soft, fresh bread that hasn’t been pre-cut and served dry and crusty)
• Every Sunday features a new music program and Afternoon Tea Menu changes monthly with a new theme. 
• The China World Lobby Lounge is plush and glamorous with individual couch chairs and a general ambiance reminiscent of a Chinese imperial palace with Ming and Qing dynasty style, the red and gold chamber gives guests a grandeur worthy of royalty.
• All waitresses are noticeably tall, which is accentuated even more with the high slits in their traditional qipao uniforms. 

Comments:

• The 12-piece orchestra is only available on Sunday afternoons from 3-6PM. 
• Generally, afternoons at the China World Hotel’s Lobby Lounge features a jazz trio from 5-7PM and from 8-10PM, they have musicians playing traditional Chinese instruments. 
• The China World Hotel Lobby Lounge is an institution in Beijing that has been around for over 20 years. The amounts of big business deals discussed and signed at these very tables and couches are countless and beyond imaginable.  
• The only thing that could have made this experience better is if we were sitting in a garden or under an open sky ceiling. 
• When I asked Lobby Manager Kimberley Tso (originally from London) if the afternoon’s tea authenticity is thanks to her expertise, she explained that influence comes from all sides – a Belgian Pastry Chef, Canadian Executive Chef and a German F&B Manager.  Interesting and very modest of her to share the due credit with the rest of her international team.
• One of the only afternoon tea events in town that is regularly fully booked, I recommend that anyone planning to check it out should book a table in advance. Just call 6505 2266 ext. 37 

Rating: (on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being best)

• Food: 9
• Atmosphere: 8
• Service: 9

• Overall Experience: 9

LDS’s Afternoon Tea Reviews in Beijing:

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