Bei: A Beijing Paradox
Posted: September 25th, 2009 | Author: LumDimSum | Filed under: Foodies & Dining Scene | Tags: Bei, Japanese food, The Opposite House | 2 Comments »In my opinion, Bei‘s cuisine blows The Opposite House‘s other dining outlets Sureno and Village Cafe out of the water.
As a restaurant that continues to win awards for its innovative, creative cuisine, conceptualized by chef entrepreneur David Laris and inspired by cuisines from Northern China, Japan and Korea, Bei serves up delicate yet flavorful and exquisite dishes creating a true dining experience.
The service is not only attentive and professional, but it’s all the small details throughout the meal make a world of difference. From the moment you step in to the in-house chocolate fortune cookies you receive at the end of the meal, you are so pampered that I could even compare the service to Maison Boulud’s (which is, in my opinion, hands down the restaurant with the most impressive sequence of service standards I have ever experienced).
And yet, we were the one of the only 3 tables in Bei throughout our 2 hour dinner. Despite Bei’s incredible cuisine, awesome chef Max, and great service and location, Bei still seems to be overlooked and continues to remain in the shadows of its neighbor, the Opposite House’s flagship restaurant, Sureno.
So I raise the question – why aren’t people flocking to Bei as they seem to do for Sureno? Is it the venue design? The food quantity? The pretty price tag? The lack of buzz or liveliness in a busy restaurant? Perhaps there isn’t one single reason or answer, nothing is ever that simple. But it does goes to show that Beijing is a very complex market and quite unpredictable.
Unfortunately, there is no secret formula that will make a venue work, especially not in Beijing. Even if a venue has delicious food, perfect service, beautiful design, it does not mean that the place will be a hit. It’s interesting that so much depends on the location, on the price, on the way the menu looks, on every aspect of your dining experience from the minute you walk in the door to the satisfaction you feel as you leave. I’ve had experiences where I’ve dined at packed out places that are ‘the talk of the town’ and I just can’t see what the fuss is all about. And I’ve also dined at gems that continue to be overlooked.
I’m not saying that Bei is perfect, but I am perplexed that it isn’t more popular. Bei is a prime example of a venue that reveals how truly complex and unpredictable the Beijing market is. Bei isn’t cheap, but neither is Maison Boulud. It’s centrally located in the Opposite House in the Sanlitun area (a hotspot for dining/nightlife in general) and they serve chocolate fortune cookies with funny fotunes inside for goodness sake!
Bei: Basement of The Opposite House. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun road, 三里屯路11号
Best Part:
- The Quality and Presentation of all the Food
- Attention to Detail in Food & Service
- The Location (anything in Sanlitun is easy to find and very accessible)
- Witty fortunes inside chocolate fortune cookies
- Lighting and Design (a great venue for a date)
Comments:
- Quite empty and quiet atmosphere (especially compared to neighbor Sureno)
- Seating tables and arrangements should be switched around (cafeteria style)
- Definitely quality over quantity (delicious dishes, but portions were quite mini)





[...] Bei @ The Opposite House: The best food quality, presentation, service, experience. Consistently impressive with each dish a work of art. Bei blows me away each time I dine here. I only wish I could afford it more often. Review of Bei is here. [...]
[...] by the owners of the Japanese whisky bar Er in Maizidian & Chef Max Levy from Bei in the Opposite House, this is a no-brainer recipe for success. Barely open for a few weeks, [...]